AÏKIROCKA reg kennel
Dunham, Qc
Canada
450.295.2682
Frequent asked Questions
Aïkirocka reg Kennel
What is the role of the Kennel Aïkirocka?
What are our health warranties?
Are our dogs registered with a certified organism?
Do our puppies come with a contract and a warranty?
What are our rules for breeding
What are our requirements so you can get a puppy from our breeding?
How do I find a professional breeder?
Alaskan Malamute
(photo of Kamyla Wapen d'Aïkirocka, in Labrador, daughter of Chanouk and Youri)
Is the Alaskan Malamute a dog for me?
Should I have my dog trained?
How does the malamute behave around other dogs and other kinds of animals?
Is the Malamute a dog subject to diseases?
Does the Malamute needs much care?
What’s the life expectancy of an Alaskan Malamute?
Bullmastiffs
Will your companion be a Bullmastiff?
Is it recommended to take training lessons with my Bullmastiff?
How does the Bullmastiff reacts towards other dogs and animals?
Is the Bullmastiff subject to diseases?
Do Bullmastiffs need much care?
What is the Bullmastiff’s life expectancy?
Standards
What is the breed Standard for Malamute
What is the breed standard for Bullmastiffs
Health of our dogs
Prevention is less costly than healing!
Nutrition
Exercise:
Hygiene:
Visit at the veterinary:
About Aikirocka Kennel
What is the role of the Kennel Aïkirocka?
It’s a Quebecer breeding, in a familial environment, with two races of dogs: the Bullmastiff and the Alaskan Malamute. We breed good quality dogs to promote these two races once threaten with extinction. Our female dogs procreate only once a year. We want our dogs to prevail over health, temperament, conformity and beauty of these remarkable races. Then you get the best companions possible, because a dog is a commitment of a lifetime.
What are our health warranties?
All our reproductive dogs have a certificate from the O.V.C. proving they are free of hips and elbows dysplasia. They are also certified in conformity, in their races respectively, about chondrodysplasia (A.M.C.A) and the eyes (C.E.R.F.). They also have a follow-up each year for vaccines and vermifuges.
Are our dogs registered with a certified organism?
All our dogs are of pure breed, therefore registered with the Canadian Kennel Club, with excellent pedigrees, issued from lineages of champions. Our Malamutes are also members of the American Malamute Club of Canada.
Do our puppies come with a contract and a warranty?
Absolutely. All our dogs are sold with a contract protecting the seller and the buyer. We give a two years warranty on hereditary diseases and /or congenital malformations. Our puppies are sold with a contract of non-reproduction, with some rare exceptions. You will receive a health record, the registration of the puppy and his pedigree. The dogs are implanted with a microchip and have protection with Petplan, a health care plan for puppies. You will also receive a starting point kit: toys, blankets, leash, collar, food and biscuits.
What are our rules for breeding
Aïkirocka kennel only breed dogs in excellent health and with stable temperament, within the standards of each species. All our reproductive dogs and companions are registered with the Canadian Kennel Club. At the age of twenty-four months, all our reproductive dogs have their hips and elbows X-rayed at the Ontario Veterinary College. They are all titular of a certificate from the OVC: free of dysplasia.
Furthermore, our Malamutes are exempt from chondrodysplasia and are titular of a certificate from the A.M.C.A. for the conformity of their rear paws. They are also certified from the C.E.R.F. as free of eye diseases. We are members of the Canadian Kennel Club, the Alaskan Malamute Club of Canada and the Bullmastiff Fanciers of Canada. Vaccines and vermifuges are administered at the appropriate time. The dogs undergo a medical follow-up with Dr. Marie-Claude Brochu from the Eastern Townships Veterinary Clinic (Clinique Vétérinaire des Cantons).
Our puppies are all sold with a microchip. They are registered and have a warranty, by contract, against hereditary and/or congenital diseases, which could hinder the puppy from a normal life, up to the age of 24 months. The selling contract includes a clause of non-reproduction. We never agree to sell a puppy without papers (not registered).
What are our requirements so you can get a puppy from our breeding?
For a potential buyer, it is imperative to get information from various sources: reading, research, conversations with professional breeders, to determine if a race of dog will suit him. A meeting between the buyer and the seller will take place to discuss and allow the buyer to see the installations and of course the dogs. The buyer will undergo a verbal or written test to determine if he has experience as a dog owner. A few meetings will help to determine which of our puppies would be the most suitable for you.
How do I find a professional breeder?
You can find information through the different dog species associations. By attending dog shows (ex: expositions). Directly at the Canadian Kennel Club. At your veterinary, or in a breeder’s directory, like Dogs Annual, that you can also find at your veterinary. By getting information from a satisfied customer.
About Alaskan Malamute
Is the Alaskan Malamute a dog for me?
Exceptional personality, intelligent and affectionate, he easily integrates in the family. It’s a dog that needs a good base training at young age so he can become a well-balanced adult. He loves outdoor life, but knows very well how to behave inside: calm and silent. He loves work and exercise.
Should I have my dog trained?
Training courses are not suggested for this kind of dog. You can train him yourself. It will require a little time, patience and some steadfastness from your part. You can correct your dog, but not humiliate him. You could hurt his sensibility and he might become less receptive. The Alaskan Malamute is not a guard dog, but his imposing appearance has a clearly dissuasive effect.
How does the Malamute behave around other dogs and other kinds of animals?
The Malamute is a group dog. And who says group says hierarchy. There will be different types of dogs: alpha, beta, gamma and omega. As a teen, the dog will try to climb up in this hierarchy. There will be conflicts, especially among dogs of the same sex. Cohabitation might prove hard at first, by when the dogs find their places among the group, they can live in harmony. The dog’s instinct, curiosity and primitive character will urge him to take interest in all type of prey: moles, mice, birds, cats, hens, etc. Anything that moves will be of interest and serve as a prey. While hiking, it would be important to have good control over him. All gardens should be fenced and all land enclosed if there are neighbours in proximity, when we are accountable for tall dogs.
Is the Malamute a dog subject to diseases?
Known for its toughness and good health, the Malamute is not immune to disease usually associated to great species: Osteochondrodysplasia: hereditary disease of rear paws (seal paws). Hips and elbows dysplasia: hereditary skeleton disease. Nyctalopia: hereditary disease of the eyes (diurnal lost of sight). Hemophilia: hereditary disease of the blood (subject to hemorrhage). These are the most common diseases, which the animal can be free of if you buy your puppy from a conscientious breeder that can prove with certificates that his line is healthy and free of these hereditary diseases.
Does the Malamute needs much care?
The Malamute needs to be brushed regularly. To do so, you can use two tools: a brush with metallic bristles for long hair, and a currycomb for the zones where the hair is shorter. During moulting season, usually two times a year, it would be best to brush your dog everyday to remove dead hair. Baths will not be frequent because the Malamute is a neat and odourless dog. You’ll occasionally have to clean his ears with Vaseline or oil applied on absorbent cotton. You’ll also have to cut or have his claws cut, especially if he spends most of his time inside, on non-abrasive surfaces. Finally, teeth should be checked on a regular basis. You should brush them regularly or give the dog special bones to remove tartar.
What’s the life expectancy of an Alaskan Malamute?
Between 10 and 13 years, in good circumstances.
About Bullmastiff
Will your companion be a Bullmastiff?
The Bullmastiff is a dog of the second group: of guard and protection. It is a big dog. The Bullmastiff is renowned in the canine world for its beauty, kindness and bravery. Athletic and powerful, he is not bulky. He has a good character and is affable. He is patient with kids and sociable with strangers. He has a strong personality, but is very faithful to his masters. Very aware of his strength, he leaves an impression of calmness and quiet power. He knows that other dogs or even humans will think twice before trying to do him harm. He is an excellent guard dog with his dissuasive appearance, courage and integrity. It is an intelligent, agile and dynamic dog. He is often compared to a lion.
Is it recommended to take training lessons with my Bullmastiff?
The Bullmastiff is a very obedient dog when taught and trained. He rarely attacks, if ever, if not provoked. He does not have a violent temper; he even accepts whims and teasing from kids and visitors. Just like with all big dogs, a training course will create complicity and a solid link, allowing the master to better understand and control his dog. It would be preferable that your dog gets used to other dogs before taking him to a training course. The Bullmastiff suits people with firm and energetic temperament, because it is a dominant dog.
How does the Bullmastiff reacts towards other dogs and animals?
The Bullmastiff considers himself the most powerful of all dogs and intends that reputation to stay that way. He will respect dogs that respect him and will befriend weaker dogs. He will not tolerate that another dog with dominant character gets between him and his master. He is the king of dogs. The other dogs must show him respect; otherwise, a fight is foreseeable. The Bullmastiff is curious by nature. When on a hike everything attracts his attention: a flower, a tree, birds, another animal, etc.
Is the Bullmastiff subject to diseases?
His health and hardiness are legendary. A reliable breeder will make sure his breeding dogs are free of hips and elbows dysplasia: a hereditary skeleton disease. Attention must also be paid to stomach twisting, which some races of tall dogs are subject to (non-hereditary). Many factors are suspected: -Eating or drinking too much. -Eating too fast. -Playing or running after a meal.
Do Bullmastiffs need much care?
A weekly brushing with a hard brush should do the trick. You have to pay attention to their eyes, by removing all secretions from the inner corner of the eyes by using a soft tissue. You can clean the folds of their skin with a piece of cotton soaked in warm water. You also have to check his ears regularly. They are sagging and V-shaped and attract dust and humidity. If they are dirty and smell bad, you should take the dog to the veterinary. He will prescribe a liquid to get rid of the problem. For normal maintenance, you should clean the ears of your dog with Vaseline or oil on absorbent cotton. You also have to trim his claws, especially if the dog spends most of his time indoors, on non abrasive surfaces. If you’re not confident to do it yourself, have a professional do the job. Finally, you also have to pay attention to his teeth. You have to brush them regularly or give him bones especially made to remove tartar.
What is the Bullmastiff’s life expectancy?
The life expectancy of the Bullmastiff is rather good for a mastiff. He can live twelve years, on average.
CKC BREED STANDARD for Malamutes
After CKC website
(photo of Kamyla Wapen d'Aïkirocka, in Labrador, daughter of Chanouk and Youri)
"Alaskan Malamute
Origin and Purpose The Alaskan Malamute, one of the oldest Arctic sled dogs, was named after the native Inuit tribe called Mahlemuts (now spelled Malamute) who settled along the shores of Kotzebue Sound in the upper western regions of Alaska. Written accounts of Alaska from various explorers and travellers rarely mention the Mahlemut people without reference to their dogs which were of the spitz-type described as being powerful looking and of remarkable endurance and fortitude. These dogs were used primarily as draught animals to haul heavy sleds, but were also used to pack supplies, for hunting seals and in packs to track polar bears. Early writings indicate that the dogs kept by the Mahlemut people were better cared for than was usual for Arctic sled dogs, and this seemingly accounts for the breed's affectionate disposition.
General Appearance
The Alaskan Malamute is a powerful and substantially built dog with a deep chest and strong, well-muscled body. The Malamute stands well over the pads, and this stance gives the appearance of much activity and a proud carriage, with head erect and eyes alert showing interest and curiosity. The head is broad. Ears are triangular and erect when alerted. The muzzle is bulky, only slight diminishing in width from root to nose. The muzzle is not pointed or long, yet not stubby. The coat is thick with a coarse guard of sufficient length to protect a woolly undercoat. Malamutes are of various colours. Face markings are a distinguishing feature. These consist of a cap over the head, the face either all white or marked with a bar and/or mask. The tail is well furred, carried over the back, and has the appearance of a waving plume. The Malamute must be heavy boned dog with sound legs, good feet, deep chest and powerful shoulders, and have all of the other physical attributes necessary for the efficient performance of his job. The gait must be steady, balanced, tireless and totally efficient. He is not intended as a racing sled dog designed to compete in speed trials. In judging Malamutes, their function as a sled dog for heavy freighting in the Arctic must be given consideration above all else. The degree to which a dog is penalized should depend upon the extent to which the dog deviates from the description of the ideal Malamute and the extent to which the particular fault would actually affect the working ability of the dog. The legs of the Malamute must indicate unusual strength and tremendous propelling power.
Temperament
The Alaskan Malamute is an affectionate, friendly dog, not a 'one man' dog. He is a loyal, devoted companion, playful in invitation, but generally impressive by his dignity after maturity.
Size
There is a natural range in size in the breed. The desirable freighting sizes are males, 25 inches at the shoulders, 85 pounds: females, 23 inches at the shoulders, 75 pounds. However, size consideration should not outweigh that of type, proportion, movement and other functional attributes. When dogs are judged equal in type, proportion, movement, the dog nearest the desirable freighting size is to be preferred. The depth of chest is approximately one half the height of the dog at the shoulders, the deepest point being just behind the forelegs. The length of the body from point of shoulder to the rear point of pelvis is longer than the height of the body from ground to top of the withers. The body carries no excess weight, and bone is in proportion to size.
Coat and Colour
The Malamute has a thick, coarse guard coat, never long and soft. The undercoat is dense, from one to two inches in depth, oily and woolly. The coarse guard coat varies in length, as does the undercoat. The coat is relatively short to medium along the sides of the body, with the length of the coat increasing around the shoulders and neck, down the back, over the rump, and in the breeching and plume. Malamutes usually have a shorter and less dense coat during the summer months. The Malamute is shown naturally. Trimming is not acceptable except to provide a clean-cut appearance of feet. The usual colours range from light grey through intermediate shadings to black, sable and shadings of sable to red.
Colour
combinations are acceptable in undercoats, points, and trimmings. The only solid colour allowable is all white. White is always the predominant colour on underbody, parts of legs, feet, and part of face markings. A white blaze on the forehead and/or collar or a spot on the nape is attractive and acceptable. The Malamute is mantled, and broken colours extending over the body or uneven splashing are undesirable.
Head
The head is broad and deep, not coarse or clumsy, but in proportion to the size of the dog. The expression is soft and indicates an affectionate disposition. The eyes are obliquely placed in the skull. Eyes are brown, almond shaped and of medium size. Dark eyes are preferred. The ears are of medium size, but small in proportion to the head. The ears are triangular in shape and slightly rounded at the tips. They are set wide apart on the outside back edges of the skull on line with the upper corner of the eye, giving ears the appearance, when erect, of standing off from the skull. Erect ears point slightly forward, but when the dog is at work, the ears are sometimes folded against the skull. The skull is broad and moderately rounded between the ears, gradually narrowing and flattening on top as it approaches the eyes, rounding off to cheeks that are moderately flat. There is a slight furrow between the eyes. The topline of the skull and the topline of the muzzle show a slight break downward from a straight line as they join. The muzzle is large and bulky in proportion to the size of the skull, diminishing slightly in width and depth from junction with the skull to the nose. In all coat colours, except reds, the nose, lips, and eye rims' pigmentation is black. Brown is permitted in red dogs. The lighter streaked 'snow nose' is acceptable. The lips are close fitting. The upper lower jaws are broad with large teeth The incisors meet with a scissors grip.
Neck
The neck is strong and moderately arched. Forequarters The shoulders are moderately sloping; forelegs heavily boned and muscled, straight to the pasterns when viewed from the front. Pasterns are short and strong and slightly sloping when viewed from the side. The feet are of the snow-shoe type, tight and deep, with well-cushioned pads, giving a firm, compact appearance. The feet are large, toes tight fitting and well arched. There is a protective growth of hair between the toes. The pads are thick and tough; toenails short and strong.
Body
The chest is well developed. The body is compactly built but not short coupled. The back is straight and gently sloping to the hips. The loins are hard and well muscled. The tail is moderately set and follows the line of the spine at the base. The tail is carried over the back when not working. It is not a snap tail or curled tight against the back, nor is it short furred like a fox brush. The Malamute tail is well furred and has the appearance of a waving plume. Hindquarters The rear legs are broad and heavily muscled through the thighs; stifles moderately bent; hock joints are moderately bent and well let down. When viewed from the rear, the legs stand and move true in line with the movement of the front legs, not too close or too wide. Dewclaws on the rear legs are undesirable should be removed shortly after puppies are whelped.
Gait
The gait of the Malamute is steady, balanced, and powerful. He is agile for his size and build. When viewed from the side, the hindquarters exhibit strong rear drive that is transmitted though a well-muscled loin to the forquarters. The forequarters receive the drive from the rear with a smooth reaching stride. When viewed from the front or from the rear, the legs move true in line, not too close or too wide. At a fast trot, the feet will converge toward the centreline of the body. A stilted gait, or any gait that is not completely efficient and tireless, is to be penalized.
Faults
The Malamute is structured for strength and endurance, and any characteristic of the individual specimen, including temperament which interferes with the accomplishment of this purpose, is to be considered the most serious of faults. Any indication of unsoundness in legs and feet, front or rear, standing or moving is to be considered a serious fault. Faults under this provision would be spayed footedness, cowhocks, bad pasterns, straight shoulders, lack of angulation, stilted gait (or an gait that isn't balanced, strong and steady), ranginess, shallowness, ponderousness, lightness of bone, and poor overall proportion. High set ears. Overshot or undershot. A long loin that may weaken the back.
Disqualification Blue eyes."
CKC BREED STANDARD for Bullmastiffs
After CKC website
(Photo Grandfather of Rocky , Blazin's Marius)
"Origin and Purpose The Bullmastiff was developed in England by gamekeepers for protection against poachers. The foundation breeding of the modern pure-bred was 60 per cent Mastiff and 40 per cent Bulldog. It is a guard and companion dog, and should be loyal, obedient, and thus suitable for training.
General Appearance The Bullmastiff is a powerfully built, symmetrical dog, showing great strength and activity, but not cumbersome; upstanding and compact in appearance, with breadth and depth of skull and body, the latter set on strong, sturdy, well-boned legs. The height measured vertically from the ground to the highest point of the withers, should nearly equal the length measured horizontally from the forechest to the rear part of the upper thigh, and should slightly exceed the height at the hips. Bitches are feminine in appearance, of somewhat lighter bone structure than the male, but should still convey strength. Faults: (S) Lack of balance. Poor or light bone structure. (M) Lack of muscular development. Ranginess.
Temperament The Bullmastiff should be bold, fearless and courageous, a dependable guard dog; alert and intelligent. Faults: (S) Viciousness. Shyness. (Such dogs should not be used for breeding.) (M) Apathy and sluggishness.
Size Height at the highest point of the withers - Dogs, 25-27 inches (63-69 cm); Females, 24-26 inches (61-66 cm).
Weight - Dogs, 110-130 lb. (50-59 kg); Females, 100-120 lb. (45-55 kg). It is important that weight be in proportion to height and bone structure, to ensure balance. Faults: (S) Over maximum height. Under minimum height. (M) Over maximum weight. Under minimum weight.
Coat and Colour Coat short and dense, giving good weather protection. Faults: (S) Long, soft coat. (M) "Staring" coat, which means poor condition. Colour: any shade of red, fawn or brindle, but the colour to be pure and clear. A small white marking on chest permissible but not desirable. Faults: (S) White markings other than on chest. (M) Black shading on body, legs or tail (of reds or fawns).
Head The skull should be large, equal in breadth, length and depth, with a fair amount of wrinkle when the dog is interested; well-developed cheeks. The skull in circumference may measure the height of the dog. Forehead flat, with furrow between the eyes. Stop definite. Faults: (S) Narrow skull. Shallow skull. (M) Domed forehead. Insufficient stop. Muzzle should be short, broad and deep, in the same proportion as the skull. The distance from the tip of the nose to the stop should not exceed one-third of the length from the tip of the nose to the centre of the occiput. Broad under the eyes and nearly parallel in width to the end of the nose; blunt and cut off square, appearing in profile in a plane parallel to the line of the skull. A black mask is essential. The nose should be black, flat, and broad with widely spreading nostrils when viewed from the front. Flews not too pendulous. The lower jaw broad. Faults: (S) Muzzle too long, too narrow, pointed or lacking in depth. Muzzle too short; nostrils set on top; nose pointed, upturned or laid back; lower jaw narrow. (M) Lack of wrinkle; flews too pendulous. Teeth preferably level bite or slightly undershot. Canine teeth large and set wide apart; other teeth strong, even and well placed. Faults (S) Teeth overshot. Teeth more than 1/4 inch (.6 cm) undershot. Wry mouth. (M) Irregular or poorly placed teeth. Small teeth. Eyes dark or hazel, and of medium size; set apart the width of the muzzle. Faults: (M) Light eyes. Eyes too close together, too large, too small. Ears V-shaped and carried close to the cheeks; set on wide and high, level with the occiput, giving a square appearance to the skull which is most important. They should be darker in colour than the body, and the point of the ear, when alert, should be level with the eye. Faults: (S) Rose ears. (M) Ears too long or too short. Lack of darker colour.
Neck Well arched of moderate length, very muscular, and almost equal in circumference to the skull. Faults: (S) Neck too short; too long. Neck weak and scrawny.
Forequarters Proper angulation and proportionate bone lengths of the forequarters are very important. The shoulder bone should slope forward and downward from the withers at an angle of 45 degrees from the vertical. The humerus (upper arm) should form a right angle with the shoulder bone, 45 degrees from the vertical. The shoulder bone and humerus should be approximately equal in length. The length of the foreleg from the ground to the elbow should be a little more than half the distance from the ground to the withers, approximately 52 per cent. The shoulders and upper arms should be muscular and powerful, but not overloaded. Forelegs powerful, with round heavy bone, vertical and parallel to each other, set well apart; elbows set close to the body. Pasterns straight and strong. Feet of medium size, not turning in or out, with round toes, well arched. Pads thick and tough. Nails black. Faults: (S) Lack of proportion in bone. Shoulder too steep. Shoulders overloaded. Elbows turned in or out. Lack of bone in forelegs. Forelegs bowed. Weak pasterns. Splay feet. (M) Feet turned in or out. White nails.
Body and Tail Body compact. Chest wide and deep, with ribs well sprung and well set down between the forelegs. Back short and level. Loins wide, muscular; croup slightly arched, with fair depth of flank. Faults: (S) Body too long. Shallow chest. Narrow chest. Lack of ribspring. Sway back. Roach back. Tip of hip bone higher than withers. (M) Too much tuck-up.
Tail set on high, strong at the root and tapering to the hocks. It may be carried straight or curved. Faults: (S) Screw tail. Crank tail. Tail set too low. (M) Tail carried hound fashion. Too long. Too short. Too heavily coated.
Hindquarters It is important that structure, angulation, and proportionate bone lengths of the hindquarters be in balance with the forequarters. The pelvis (hip bone) should slope backward and downward from the spine at an angle of 30 degrees. The femur (upper thigh bone) should form a right angle with the pelvis. The lower thigh bone (stifle) should set at an angle of 45 degrees to the vertical. The pelvis and femur should be approximately equal in length. The ratio of the lengths of the femur, to the tibia/fibula, to the hock should be approximately as 4:5:3. The length of the lower leg, from the ground to the hock joint, should be a little less than 30 per cent of the distance from the ground to the top of the hip bones. The lower leg should be vertical to the ground. The hips should be broad, in balance with shoulders and rib cage. Hind legs strong and muscular, with well-developed second thighs, denoting power and activity, but not cumbersome, set parallel to each other and well apart, in balance with forelegs and body. Feet as in forequarters. Faults: (S) Lack of proportion in bone. Poor angulation at hip bone. Narrow hip structure. Stifle too straight or over-angulated. Cow-hocks. Bowed hind legs. Splay feet. (M) Feet turned in or out. White nails.
Gait The gait should be free, balanced and vigorous. When viewed from the side the dog should have good reach in the forequarters and good driving power in the hindquarters. The back should be level and firm, indicating good transmission from rear to front. When viewed from the front (coming toward) or from the rear (going away), at a moderate pace, the dog shall track in two parallel lines, neither too close together nor too far apart, so placed as to give a strong well-balanced movement. The toes (fore and hind) should point straight ahead.
Direction to exhibitors and judges The dog should be moved in the ring at a sufficient speed to show fluidity of movement and not at a slow walk. Faults: (S) Rolling, padding or weaving when gaited. Any crossing movement, either front or rear. Stilted and restricted movement. (Dogs with structural weakness as evidenced by poor movement should not be used for breeding.) Disqualifications Liver mask. No mask. Yellow eyes. "
Health of our dogs
Prevention is less costly than healing!
The bases of flourishing health, at our kennel, go by four points:
Nutrition,
Exercise,
Hygiene,
Follow up with a professional veterinary.
Nutrition
Your dog should be well fed, with a complete product appropriate to his age: puppy or dog, mature dog, active or indolent dog, or dog having some particular health problem. With good quality food, you should save time and money, and many visits at the vet. Stability in the brand of food and meals served at set hours is desirable. Use renowned brands of food and avoid low graded ones: the cheapest. Your dog is not an experimental laboratory. Changes in the brand of food will probably lead to serious problems.
Exercise:
As your dog is concerned, it’s a question of mental and physical equilibrium. Might it be from playing or walking, your dog will always take it with happiness. It will bring closeness to both the master and the dog, who will see it as a token of fondness. It is essential that the dog has clear and stable rules in his life.
Hygiene:
Ears, eyes, teeth, pelt, claws and anal glands. Another moment of intimacy your companion will appreciate, if you start at a young age, around 10 weeks old. Here at Kennel Aïkirocka, we familiarise our puppies with personal grooming, which reinforce their confidence toward us.
Ears
Clean the ears of your animal once or twice a month, either if they are straight or sagging, with a liquid that will dry the auditory canal. You will find this product at your veterinary. It also helps to get rid of bad odours. It also eliminates impurities, therefore preventing otitis and scabies.
Eyes
With a small humidified cloth, clean secretions that appear in the inside corner of the eyes. Avoid scrubbing to prevent irritation. In case of inflammation, see your vet.
Teeth
A puppy has 32 teeth, compare to the adult who has 42 (some species make exception). The dental chronology follows four steps, from the age of one month to complete dental maturity, around the age of seven months. Check your puppy or dog’s teeth on a regular basis. Brush them at least twice a week with either toothpaste or a simple compress soaked with a baking soda solution, wrapped around your index. You can also use a plastic finger tip made for that purpose. You will then avoid bad breath and tartar problems. You can add to that bones especially made to remove tartar.
Pelt: brushing and baths.
Short-haired dogs need less brushing that long-haired ones. Once a week should do the trick. Long-haired dogs will need 2 or 3 brushings a week. All depends if you live in the countryside or in the city. During moulting season, usually two times a year (spring and fall), it would be best to brush your dog everyday. Many dog owners complain about moulting, is natural. It is due to changes in ambient temperature. Dogs usually moult when temperature and day length varies. When mercury rises or falls, and daylight stretches or diminishes, the dog brains orders follicles to increase activity. Hair growth is usually more intense during summer and less during winter. Food supplements like omega fatty acids should help to reduce moulting. As for housekeeping, it’s better to clean a brush than the entire house. Another cause for moulting: stress and too frequent baths. Do not throw away leftover hairs. Keep it in a bag and when spring comes, spread them in trees or on your lawn. Birds use them for the final touch, when building their nests. It will generate warmth and comfort for the young birds that’ll be able to sleep in a nest made of genuine dog hairs.
Claws
Just like human nails, animal claws have a specific function: protection against foreign bodies. As for dogs, claws give them stability and adhesion on the ground to allow them to start, run, manoeuvre, change course and dig. Puppy claws need to be cut every two weeks. On adult dogs, claws should be cut every 4 to 6 weeks. You should know that pet shops sell tools especially made for cutting claws. You must be careful not to crush the claw, which can be quite painful. Work on claws one by one, removing just a small part at the time. Do not attempt to cut the claw in a single shot because you might cut the flesh inside. That flesh contains nerves and veins and is usually black, which make it difficult to locate on dogs with black claws. If you don’t feel skilful or comfortable enough or are afraid to hurt your dog, then it would be wise to bring your dog to a grooming salon or to your veterinary.
Anal glands
These glands normally drain when your dog “does his business”. If you notice your dog wiping himself on the grass or somewhere else, it’s a sign that his anal glands are congested. After making sure that the problem is not due to worms, all you have to do is lift up his tail and compress the anal region with cotton.
Visit at the veterinary:
How to choose a good veterinary? The veterinary is a significant person in the life of your animal. A good veterinary will be able to keep your animal in good health and give the owner a peace of mind. He should establish a relationship based on confidence with the owner and the dog. As a professional, he must make a good first impression, answer your questions and be gentle and reassuring to your companion. You must inquire if he offers emergency care 24 hours a day. Otherwise he should give you the address of an emergency clinic open 24 hours a day. He must inform you about the services he can offer in case of emergency. If he keeps your companion under observation, will some assistant be on night-shift duty? Does his clinic have all the necessary equipment in the case of a serious problem that requires hospitalization? These simple questions will help you make the best choice possible for your dog.